How to Plan your Ladakh Trip: Complete Travel Guide on Ladakh by Road

By Nikhil Chandra

How to Plan your Trip to Leh Ladakh Postcards from Ladakh

Magnetic Hills on Leh -
Srinagar Highway
is a popular stopover.
It is belived that a vehicle parked here
is pulled uphill due to the magnetic property of the place
which is obviously not correct.
It's appears so due to optical illusion.

Before introducing Ladakh, I’d like to mention some pertinent points which every tourist planning trip to Ladakh should know and take care of.

These are also the questions which are often asked in online travel forums like Tripadvisor, Indiamike and Lonely Planet’s Thorntree etc.

The most recurring questions are related to acclimatization, ATMs, Petrol Pumps, acute mountain sickness and innerline permits along with the length of Ladakh tour itineraries.

In this Hub I have tried to answer as many questions on Ladakh trip planning which popped into my mind or as a traveler myself I’d asked before venturing to this barren paradise.

Chang La is the high mountain pass which
you need to cross to go to Pangong Tso
Lake from Leh It is also one of the most
beautiful passes that I crossed during
my Ladakh road trip

Nestled in the Trans-Himalayan region, in the state of Jammu & Kashmir in North India, Ladakh is one of the favorite jaunt for nature lovers and adventurous souls.

Tourists from all over the world throng in this mountainous region to explore the less explored jewels of nature.

Besides natural treasures, the region is also famous for its ancient Buddhist monasteries. Ladakh is often dubbed as ‘Little Tibet’ as it shares an international boundary with Tibet and play host to a sizable population of Tibetan Buddhists.

Although a trip to Ladakh has a lot to offer but tourists are required to take some precautions as it is mostly a barren land and has low atmospheric pressure/low oxygen level at higher altitude.

Going by the statistics of Google Trends, ‘Leh Ladakh India’ and ‘Leh Ladakh tour packages’ has the highest search results. In a bid to assist first time Ladakh travelers for the peak season (May to August), I have listed a few travel tips which could help you plan your trip to Ladakh.

All these tips are based on my personal travel experiences in Leh Ladakh region.

Acclimatization in Ladakh

How to deal with high altitude and acclimatize in Leh Ladakh

While planning your trip to Ladakh, acclimatization is one of the most vital aspect of the itinerary sketching and should be given utmost importance. The rule is not to rush your Ladakh trip and give proper time for acclimatization.

To adapt to the low atmospheric pressure condition you need to give yourself time for proper acclimatization. It is always advisable to keep first 2 days after your arrival in Leh for getting used to high altitude condition.

Don’t just arrive in Leh and think of going to Nubra or Pangong or you could get seriously affected by AMS which may lead to severe headaches, nausea, restlessness, or even inability to walk and think and ataxia which in turn will ruin your vacation.

Even the most fit people get affected by the Acute Mountain Sickness. Therefore, it is advised to take some precautions beforehand.

Few points to keep in mind:

Physical fitness is the first and the foremost thing you need to consider while undertaking a trip to Ladakh region.
Increase your altitude gradually and compensate ascent with rest at places to acclimatize.
Due to the low atmospheric pressure, it is necessary for a tourist to take the rest of around 2 days or 48 hours after reaching Leh.
If you are suffering from high blood pressure, heart ailments and asthma, kindly abstain yourself from planning a trip to Leh Ladakh.
Hydration is necessary but overdoing it could only harm you. Just increase your normal water intake by a liter and it will do. Dehydration does not necessarily leads to AMS
During the cold weather, cover your head and ears with something warm.
Don’t exert yourself physically too much. Never run here and there out of exscitement especially on passes. Low level of oxygen could lead to fatique in an instance and it would be literally very difficult to catch your breath. You mind feel the earth go round or even fall unconscious.
Some preventive medicines do aid acclimatization and treat altitude sickness the most popular is Diamox, The local version of these medicine, a time tested and natural alternative is garlic soup or soup prepared with lots of Garlic
If you notice any early warning symptoms such as headache, nausea, dizziness and fatigue, take immediate rest and descend if you are on high altitude (as in Khardung La Top) without any delay.
I know this one is difficult to do but avoid smoking and drinking alcohol on high altitude to prevent AMS
If you are taking Leh-Manali Highway then stop at Keylong, Jispa, Darcha and avoid if possible staying at Sarchu; else if you are taking Leh-Srinagar Highway you should spend overnight at Kargil (I am assuming that you have already spent a night in Manali or Srinagar respectively).
If you are flying directly to Leh and 2 days should be the minimum time spent in Leh for acclimatization. During this period short detours to Thiksey, Hemis, Shey, Nimoo and Stok etc. to visit monasteries and palaces are always open for you to choose.
And yes do not sleep during days. I know this was not required as who'd waste even seconds of time sleeping during day in such a magnificent land.

Here’s my personal reckoning with AMS

I had to face this during my stay just after descending Baralacha La.

One bike in our group of three got stuck in a water stream on the pass due to vicious current and we had our feets, socks and even boots wet with water. Somehow we managed to reach a small settlement of tents near Baralacha La and had to stop there as getting to Sarchu was impossible. We had dinner and then went to sleep but at around 03:00 I woke up with severe headache which refused to let go. By sunrise it was feeling like hell but somehow I managed to get on my bike. I was feeling very weary but we did began our further descent and the headache abated even before we reached Sarchu.

What to Pack for Ladakh Trip

Clothing and Other Essentials

Ladakh is situated in Greater Himalayas which means it is cold and at considerable elevation. As soon as you cross Keylong (Leh-Manali Highway) you will see considerable change in weather condition as well as landscape. The same changes will be apparent when you cross Zoji La on Leh-Srinagar Highway.

The point is that traveling at such altitude during days will provide ample warmth and sun shine. It seldom rains in the Ladakh region and that is one of the reason Ladakh is considered to be one of the best monsoon holiday getaway in India.

During day time a simple pullover or a jacket will do the trick but as soon as the sun go down mercury also falls sharply and temperature on thermometer reading could even reach zero. The evening is generally when people rest inside their accommodation and accommodations all along the route are warm enough.

Even sleeping in tents is not a problem as blankets and quilts are provided by the owners. Mentioned below are few key things which you should pack when traveling to Ladakh.

At least 2 Jackets and 2-3 pullovers
A pair of hand gloves preferably woolen, and warm clothes/caps to cover your ear and necks especially so if you are a rider
Soaps, towels, general medicines, bandages etc.
2-3 pairs of thermocot inners
4-5 pairs of socks (must for bikers)
Good waterproof shoes for trekking and riding in case you are a biker as you’d have to face water streams on high mountain passes like Chang La, Baralacha La and others
One warm sleeping bag if you are planning to camp along the route
Carry some vital medicines for Acute Mountain Sickness such as Avomine,Dexamethasone, Diamox and Acetazolamide
Lots of chocolates, biscuits and dry fruits
Camera, chargers for cell phone and other basic things

Packing Essentials for Bikers

Packing Tips for Bikers on Ladakh Road Trip

Besides above mentioned stuffs you will also need:

A pair of good raincoats as more often than not riders to face rain After crossing Chandigarh and before crossing Rohtang La Pass on Leh-Manali Highway. On Srinagar-Leh Highway you are more likely to get caught in the rain until you reach Zoji La.

Alternatively, you could use raincoat as wind-cheater and they also help keep your clothes clean all along the dirt track on passes and Moore Plains. The cloud of sand and dirt is too much especially when an army convoy is passing and when you are crossing passes on which overtaking takes trucks and other vehicle takes longer due to narrow roads.

Water Proof Gloves

Boots to keep your feet, shoes and socks from getting wet at water stream flowing on passes especially the one at Baralacha La which is one of the most vicious another tough water stream to cross is at Chang La. The trick is not to cross the stream from middle and keep your bike in first gear and use clutch to maintain traction and throttle.

Spare tube, puncture kit, clutch wire, break wire, chain lock, gear oil, engine oil, spark plugs etc are a must pack in your bag. Also carry petrol jar if you are taking Leh-Manali Highway as the last petrol pump that you’ll find is at Tandi which is around 380 Kms before you find the next at Karu. So 10-20 litres of extra petrol is what I’d recommend you to carry.

Puncture shops are also not available and even if you find one, there is no guarantee that they will have the tube hence a tyre tubeis a must pack item even if you don’t have puncture kit.

Leh - Ladakh Bike Rental Costs 2014

Bike name	Model	Min. Rate per day
Royal Enfield	500 CC All Models	1500
Royal Enfield	350 CC Classic/Thunderbird	1600
Royal Enfield	350 CC Electra	1000
Royal Enfield	350 CC Standard	900
Honda Activa	Automatic	1400
Bajaj Avenger	200 CC	900
Bajaj Pulsar	200 CC	900
Bajaj Pulsar	150 CC	700
Yamaha FZ, Hero Impulse		700
Scooters	125	800
Automatic Bikes without Gear		700

The cost of hiring motorcycle in Leh Ladakh as announced by Ladakh Bike Rental Association which governs the rate in the region.

New Rules for Inner Line Permit 2014 A look at Innerline Permit form

These are the fields in the application form
that you need to fill to obtain inner line
permits at DC office in Leh

The good news this year (2014) is that Indian won't require any inner line permits to visit destinations in Ladakh.

As per the new circular issued by the office of District Magistrate of Leh, Indian Nationals will no longer need to apply for inner line permits to visit certain inner areas like Turtuk, Panamik, Khaltse, Pangong, Changthang, Hunder, Nubra Valley Tso Kar and Tso Moriri etc. in Ladakh.

But you would need to carry your Nationality ID proof (Driving Licence, Voter ID etc.) which will have to be presented at certain check posts where earlier Indians were required to submit a copy of inner line permit.

But still you are on a motorcycle and your route involve crossing or travelling to Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors then you'd still need to apply for and obtain inner line permits as per the earlier procedure before traveling to these places.

The new rules for inner line permits will really help those travelers who don't want to come back to Leh after Tso Mori Ri and head straight to Manali thus saving them a precious day.

Bbut I'd personally advise against coming to Tso Mori Ri from Manali directly as it would lead to acute mountain sickness (located as it is at an altitude of avove 15,000 feet).

And I assure you this will ruin your trip.

How to obtain Inner Line Permits in Ladakh

Getting Innerline Permits for Indians and Protected Area Permits for Foreign Travelers

To visit certain inner areas like Turtuk, Panamik, Khaltse, Pangong, Changthang, Hunder, Tso Kar and Tso Moriri etc. in Ladakh even foreign residents need to obtain innerline permits.

Visiting Hanle, Chusul (for Pangong to Tso Mori RI by road), Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors will still require Indian Nationals to obtain inner line permits.

Travelers from overseas (with exception of residents of Burma, Bhutan, Nepal and Pakistan) need to obtain Protected Area Permit (PAP) to visit the above places. In case of foreigners, the permit is issued only for a group with four or more foreign tourists.

For foreign tourists, it is also mandatory to go through a registered travel agent in order to obtain the Permit. The travel agent will also help you group together with others in case you are traveling solo or couple so that your permit could be obtained.

Innerline Permits for Indian nationals are valid up to 3 weeks and Protected Area Permit is issued for a maximum of 7 days. You need to re-apply for the same if you are planning to visit more remote areas in Ladakh region.

What's good in case of Foreign tourist's PAP is that they need not travel in same group or with the travel agent which will be mentioned in the permit.

Traveling to Suru and Zanskar Valley does not require inner line permits. Foreign visitors can't go beyong Merak Village in Pangong or Mahe Village in the Changthang.

The application forms for obtaining the permit is easily available at the stationary shop just behind the Leh DC office.

Leh DC office opens at 9.00 AM and application for permits are usually not accepted after 03:00 PM (The office remains closed on Sundays and National Holidays)

Its always advisable to reach the office as early as possible to avoid the rush and to get the permit in a hassle free way.

The fee required for the permit is Rs. 200 per person as environment tax + Rs. 20 per person per day as wild life protection fee and Rs. 10 Red Cross Donation.

Carry a valid photo ID and photocopies of your proof of Nationality(Passport, DL, Voters ID etc.)

One person may apply for entire group provided he/she is carrying attested photocopy of proof of nationality of all member in the group

After acquiring the permit make sure that you carry 4-5 copies of the permits and photo id proof. You may require to subit them at certain checkposts by the military personnel who track entry and exit at certain points to check if a tourist has returned or not.

It's more for your own safety as one may get stranded during trek or may get stuck due to bad weather condition.

Mention all major places you are traveling to in the permit i.e. if you are spending night in Spangmik you need to mention only Pangong Lake. Certain places and in some cases even routes need to be mentioned.

I, order to take the Chushul route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, with a visit to Hanle, you need to mention Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Chushul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Mahe, Hanle and Tso Moriri in the permit application.

Accommodation in Ladakh

Due to the conditions and nature of Ladakh region, luxury hotel properties or accommodation are not available in the region. There’s one luxury hotel in Leh Town by the name of Grand Dragon.

At other places you’ll find budget and deluxe or even luxury tents and camps some with basic facilities and some with running hot waters and attached western toilets. Homestays are easily available at most of the places with basic facilities and would cost 150-200 per person for the night.

Luxury Camps with attached toilets and running hot water will cost you around 3000-5000 for two person. You could also book your accommodation in advance through the internet or calling the hotels and camp providers or may may check in upon arrival as Ladakh is not one of the places which has those ”peak seasons” when the rooms are fully booked in advance.

Accommodation for Bikers along Leh-Manali and Leh-Srinagar Highway

For bikers accommodation is available all along the route on both Leh-Manali and Leh-Srinagar Highway. To allow for acclimatization, bikers taking Leh-Manali Highway, accommodation is available at Keylong, Jispa, Darcha and Sarchu and one should stay for the night at one of the places.

Most of the bikers stay at camps in Sarchu. But if you have arrived at Zingzing Bar late in the afternoon, avoid crossing Baralacha La as the water stream which crosses the road on this pass gets dangerous to cross due to strong current.

Return to Darcha or Jispa to spend overnight. One could also stay at Pang but watch out for AMS as Pang and Sarchu are located at an elevation of 15,100 and 14,100 feet respectively. So don't cross Baralacha La if you are already feeling mountain sickness or if there are any symptoms like headache or nausea and stay at Jispa or Darcha at 10,800 feet and 11,020 feet respectively.

If you are riding from Srinagar, then I’d advise you to stopover in Mulbekh instead of Kargil or even Lamayuru if you could make it. Kargil is overpriced and an overrated place to spend the night not to mention that accommodations here are way overpriced.

Personally I'd recommend taking Srinagar route and return via Manali as it helps in acclimatization. If you are on a road trip to Ladakh via Manali route than I'd advice that you stay for the night at Jispa, Darcha or Keylong to avoid any risk of AMS.

Petrol Pumps in Leh Ladakh

If you are traveling by road and doing Ladakh by Motorcycle or 4 Wheeler, you need to know where the petrol pumps are and when you need to keep reserve petrol in cans and jars so that you don’t run out of fuel on the highway.

This is imperative especially if you have chosen Leh-Manali Highway for your road trip. The last petrol pump that you’ll find on this route is located at Tandi and the next one is at Karu which is around 380 kms away. It is always advisable to carry petrol in reserve so that you don’t get stranded just because you ran out of petrol.

Similarly if you are Planning Leh – Pangong – Tso Mosriri – Rumtse – Leh or Leh – Nubra – Pangong Leh which would be like traveling more than 700 – 900 kms, then get your tank full and carry plenty of petrol in reserve as you are going to need it.

At some places petrol are available at local shops and residences near roadside settlements along the route but you need to pay luxury surcharge to buy them and the quality of petrol is not guaranteed.

You need not worry about petrol or fuel if you are taking Leh-Srinagar Highway as you’d find enough petrol pumps en route.

ATMs in Leh Ladakh

Money Matters during Ladakh Trip: Tips on Cash and ATMs

Except from some antique shops, credit cards are not accepted by any of the hotels and travel agents. Therefore, carry a good amount of cash with you. If you find carrying cash a bit risky, go for plastic money i.e. the debit cards and withdraw money from the ATM’s whenever required. ATMs of several banks like SBI, AXIS Bank, J&K Bank, PNB etc. are available in Leh Town from where you could easily withdraw as per your need. More interior places like Pangong, Changthang etc. don’t have that facility so carry your cash when traveling to inner areas in Ladakh region.

General Travel Tips to Plan your Leh Ladakh Trip

Respect the Local Culture

While on a trip to Ladakh region, kindly show respect towards the local culture and abstain yourself from doing such activities which are against the norms of Tibetan Buddhist culture. The Tibetan Buddhist culture is quite ancient and conservative, so dress properly and cover your full body. Always take permission before clicking photographs of any person. If they ask for money, don’t click pictures.

Communication Facilities in Ladakh

There are STD booths available in most of the markets in Ladakh region but they close down before 10 PM. On the other hand, Kargil has a global direct dialing telephone facility, other than post and telegraph facility. Adding to that is the wireless Radio phone network service of Jammu & Kashmir Tourism station with field stations at Leh, Padum and Kargil. During May to August (peak tourist season), Jammu & Kashmir Tourism establishes mobile wireless stations in the remote areas.

Avoid Usage of Plastic Bags

Both locals and tourists are responsible for the well maintained environment. Therefore, do not litter around the place. Also, plastic is officially banned in Ladakh; hence avoid the use of plastic and polythene bags.

Carry Proper Documents for Bike Trip

If you are heading to Ladakh on a motorcycle, you will come across some high land passes such as Changla Pass, Zojila Pass, Fatula Pass and Khardungla Pass. Since all these areas have a huge military presence, it’s better you carry permit, vehicle registration, driving license, and bike insurance paper.

If you are looking for someone else to plan your journey or need more information on attractions, places, lakes and passes then I'd recommend you to visit the website of lehladakhindia.com.

Taxi/Cab Cost in Leh Ladakh 2014

Cost in Indian Rupees	Innova / Xylo	Qualis/ Scorpio/Tavera	Echo/Zen
Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace,Sankar Gompa	1,136	1,089	1,042
Shey, Thiksey, Hemis, Stok	3,138	3,010	2,876
Sangam, Hall Of Fame,Pathar Sahib, Magnetic Hill, Spituk Kali Mandir	2,273	2,178	2,083
Pangong Lake (One Day)	9,046	8,670	8,293
Pangong Lake (Two Days)	10,770	10,815	9,871
Khardungla	2,677	2,543	2,414
Khardungla, Deskit, Hunder (One Day)	9,274	8,887	8,502
Khardungla ,Deskit, Hunder, Sumoor, Panamik (Two Days)	11,046	10,586	10,125
Likir, Alchi	3,382	3,241	3,100
Likir , Alchi, Lamayuru (One Day)	6,579	6,305	6,031
Basgo, Likir , Alchi, Rezeong, Uletokeo, Lamayuru (Two Days)	8,852	8,482	8,115
Market Transfers	188	188	188
Airport Transfers	341	341	341
Leh- Kargil Drop	8,257	7,912	7,568
Leh- Kargil (Via Batalik)	12,013	11,513	11,011
Leh- Kargil (Via Sanjak)	9,667	9,263	8,860
Leh ? Kargil (1/N) ? Srinagar	19,237	18,434	17,634
Leh- Zanskar	18,880	18,538	18,194
Leh ? Srinagar (One Day)	16,359	15,678	14,996
Leh - Tsomoriri via Mahey Bridge (one Day)	12,334	11,821	11,307
Leh -Dhad-Tsokar - Tsomoriri Via Mahey Bridge (2 Days)	19,316	18,512	17,706
Leh ? Manali (Two Day)	22,570	21,628	20,689
Leh ? Manali (Two Days) - Leh	29,344	28,120	26,897
Permit Fee (Pangong/Nubra)	500 Per Person

Cost of Hiring Tempo Traveller for Local Sightseeing in Ladakh

Cost in Indian Rupees	Tempoo Traveller
Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Sankar Gompa	1,419
Shey, Thiksey, Hemis, Stok	3,921
Sangam, Hall Of Fame,Pathar Sahib, Magnetic Hill, Spituk Kali Mandir	2,840
Pangong Lake (One Day)	11,309
Pangong Lake (Two Days)	13,462
Khardungla	3,346
Khardungla, Deskit, Hunder (One Day)	11,593
Khardungla , Deskit, Hunder, Sumoor, Panamik (Two Days)	13,808
Likir, Alchi	4,227
Likir , Alchi, Lamayuru (One Day)	8,224
Basgo, Likir , Alchi, Rezeong, Uletokeo, Lamayuru (Two Days)	11,065
Market Transfers	442
Airport Transfers	759
Leh- Kargil Drop / Return	10,319 / 14,357
Leh- Kargil (Via Batalik) Drop / Return	15,016/ 19,519
Leh- Kargil (Via Sanjak) Drop / Return	12,082 / 15,708
Leh - Kargil (1/N) - Srinagar	24,045
Leh-Zanskar	25,489
Leh - Srinagar (One Day)	20,449
Leh - Tsomoriri via Mahey Bridge (One Day)	11,005/ 15,418
Leh -Dhad-Tsokar - Tsomoriri Via Mahey Bridge (2 Days)	24,145
Leh - Manali (One Day)	30,470
Leh - Manali (Two Days)	28,212
Manali - Leh (One Day Shairing Basis) Everyday at 2:00 AM (Midnight)	3,162
Manali - Sarchu (1/N) - Leh (Two Days Shairing Basis)Everyday at 5:00 AM (Tented accommodation at Serchu @ 1500 Per Person Extra with Breakfast and Dinner)	3,795